The Olfactory Pyramid
Families of Perfumes
The pyramid is a theoretical view of the degree of evaporation of the components and their persistence. E 'consists of 3 levels that allow you to illustrate the temporal development of the fragrance.
The top notes are fresh and light and low persistence, they vanish in a few minutes.
Those few minutes are enough to trigger the desire to find out, which is why this stage is called the "flight of perfume", generally built from citrus fruits, aromatic plants and aquatic notes or marine.
The heart notes are more powerful, the most consistent of the top notes and medium persistence. For two or three hours will intertwine the smells of flowers, fruit and green notes, expression of the wealth of a perfume and its "wake".
The base notes, woods, musk, amber notes, vanilla, spices, animal notes, etc., evaporate with sensual slowness and may persist for days. They express the "personality" of the fragrance that generates loyalty in use.
The result of each olfactory fragrance depends also by the personal olfactory and from its own skin that, depending on the different acidity of each of us, may affect the interpretation of the fragrance itself.
The perfume may, however, be divided into different "families" olfactory:
Notes are often fresh and light that traditionally express the spirit of colognes,
although nowadays frequently characterizes men's fragrances. The citrusy terms refers to the essences derived from citrus fruits such as bergamot, mandarin, l 'bitter orange, lemon and citron.
The aldehydes are products of synthesis very powerful, in fact confer power to the scent, giving rise to a real olfactory amplification. It was progenitor Chanel 5 that, created in 1921 and always topical, is the first perfume in which the aldehydes have been used erroneously with an overdose. These substances synthetically reproduce the natural essences of flowers in a particularly penetrating, so I'm aldehyde women's fragrances tend to floral or woody-chypre.
Is a source of inspiration for animal substance called "ambergris" produced by the sperm whale or created in the laboratory, the smell of which is nuanced animals, similar to woody balsamic and tobacco. It 'an agreement that often animates the oriental fragrances, characterized by sweet notes, powdery, vanilla and animals very marked.
Chypre (O CHYPRE)
Derived from the name of Francois Coty perfume launched in 1917, inspired by the evocative emotions of the 'island of Cyprus, who later became the founder of a namesake fragrance family. In the chypre scents contratsto between the freshness of bergamot and the depth of oak moss is a wonderful synthesis. L 'agreement is an infinite number of variations on the theme in women's fragrances, for example, is often complemented by nuances aldeico-musky or by touches of seaweed and driftwood, or by floral notes, spicy, leather fragrance and type of animal such as' amber, musk and the owl. Nell 'male project instead are characterized by the presence of conifers, leather and animals, sometimes with variations fresh and spicy-woody.
The name itself tells us that are mainly characterized by a floral arrangement and are divided into two broad categories: the greens from 'impact as fresh, as well as special synthetic compounds, as galbanum, mastic, parsley and violet leaves, and flower- flowered in which reconfirms the predominance of flowers with a strong scent such as rose, geranium. The tuberose, l 'ylang-ylang, narcissus, flowers d' orange and mimosa; belong to this subgroup the majority of women's perfumes and fragrances, however, almost all contain floral nuances.
It 's the recent interpretation of oriental fragrances often tempered by spicy or floral notes
It does not mean fern (literal translation of the French word), but it is a fancy word that basically includes all men's fragrances that have an agreement born from 'combination of oak moss and lavender, wood, patchouli, geranium and bergamot .
Freshness is a subjective sensation that may depend on different olfactory sensations, in fact if Europe is generally associated with lemon, lavender, known to the green and flowery components to read, even in the United States or sweet powdery scents are considered in all respects fresh.
It is said of perfumes in which the olfactory perception is linked to 'smell of fresh fruits such as strawberry, raspberry, melon, pineapple, l' apricots and peaches. If the fruity notes have the upper hand over the other, the fragrance becomes greedy, almost edible and lost in sensuality. Being known particularly persistent, tend to remain even when those flowers are fresh and evaporated.
Woody notes such as sandalwood or patchouli, leading thread to an infinite number of perfumes. D i are usually employed in depth and to them we owe that 'wrap-around effect on the skin that persists after the' evaporation of the most volatile.
It is precisely the known musky notes to give the fragrance substance and depth and among the many shades, the most used are the oak moss and what d 'tree, while others have a woody base, the scent of leather or marine. The moss plant should not be confused with musk, material of animal origin.
It can be broken down into eastern with a predominance of floral notes, or spicy and amber. To this family belong the scents of the most ancient tradition, mainly from 'Asia, warm and persistent, ideal for moments of great seduction, their characteristic is to be deep, enveloping markedly sweet and sensual, indicated especially for the evening or the winter season. The oriental notes is given by some flowers (such as rose, geranium, tuberose), but especially by some notes like vanilla and food animals such as ambergris, civet and musk Tonkin.
Among the flower-blooming, there are some Ozonized, ie starting with notes that give a feeling of air or water fresh and clean.
We must make a distinction between the spices and aromas: the first are substances that are made to dry before being used, while the latter are used exclusively fresh. Among the best known spices we cinnamon, marjoram, cloves, coriander, pepper and ginger, while among the aromas remind the 'anise, fennel, l' oregano, bay leaves, cumin, basil , the vervain.
The term usually refers to hints of 'grass, the leaves of some other plant components. The green notes are often used to achieve special effects in the top notes. The female green scents tend to be fresh and light, or balsamic and powdery, the men tend to be more citrus.